L&P Performance Centerlink Installation Instructions

NOTICE: Read through these instructions COMPLETELY first to make sure you understand everything that must be done. Follow ALL safety precautions! Use your common sense also; we cannot cover every situation here.

You may also either need or want to jack the truck up. Follow all the manufacturers’ cautions and instructions, included, but not limited to: using proper lifting points, and using jack stands. NEVER work under a vehicle supported only by a jack!

1.   Make sure your truck is on a HARD, LEVEL SURFACE.

2.   Block both of the rear tires, front and back, so truck cannot roll either direction.

3.   Set emergency brake. Be sure the automatic transmission is in “park”, or in any gear in manual transmission trucks.

4.   Before proceeding, be sure that the idler arm and pitman arm are in good shape and are unbent. They need to be replaced if they are damaged. If you have purchased L&P Performance double-sheer idler and/or pitman arm(s), install them using O.E. recommended procedures and torque specifications. We also recommend the usage of an idler arm brace (see our web site).

5.   You will need to remove your old centerlink. You may need to remove the splashguard on the front of the truck. Removing the splashguard WILL make the job easier. You will need to remove the two nuts holding the two tapered tie rod ends (TREs) to the centerlink. Then you will need to remove the tapered TREs from the centerlink. YOU WILL PROBABLY BE REUSING THESE, SO BE CAREFUL WITH THE THREADS! Banging on the threaded ends is a sure way to ruin the threads. Use a “Pickle Fork.” You can “rent” one at most local auto parts stores. If you plan to replace your TRE’s, now is an excellent time to do so.

6.   You will also need to remove the two nuts on the tapers of the old centerlink. Since you WILL NOT reuse these, you can just drive them out of the pitman arm and idler arm with a hammer. You might also opt for the “pickle fork.” RETAIN THE CENTERLINK AS YOU WILL NEED IT FOR YOUR CORE CHARGE REFUND! The Centerlink MUST be unbent and otherwise undamaged to receive your core charge refund! The condition of the threaded tapered joints is of no concern. The above also applies for idler/pitman arm cores if you have purchased L&P Performance double-sheer idler and/or pitman arm(s). Even if you already sent in your core(s), we always greatly appreciate old cores as they are difficult for us to obtain at times. Often times we will give you a few bucks of store credit at our discretion for your old cores (feel free to email us).  

  1. You will now need to drill out the tapered holes on the pitman arm and idler arm to 5/8”. The ideal way is to remove the idler arm and drill it on a drill press, as it will move if still attached to the truck (this is a good time to grease the idler arm spindle and all surfaces of the idler arm shaft with liberal amounts of chassis grease). If you lock the steering on the truck, the pitman arm can be drilled easily while still on the truck. THE HOLES MUST BE DRILLED STRAIGHT AND TRUE THROUGH THE IDLER AND PITMAN ARMS TO PREVENT BINDING OF THE NEW CENTERLINK! This step may be skipped if using L&P Performance double-sheer idler and/or pitman arms since these arm(s) are already be drilled for the 5/8” bolt.
  1. Now, to the good part! Attaching your NEW L&P Performance Centerlink! As with the old centerlink, it gets installed on top of the idler and pitman arms. Make sure you install the new centerlink with the right side up.

9.   Take your NEW L&P Performance Centerlink and place one of the 5/8” bolts with a flat washer through the top of one side. Place another flat washer on the bolt, so the NEW Centerlink is “sandwiched” between two flat washers. Insert the bolt through the hole in either the idler or pitman arm, depending on which side you started with. Place another flat washer on the bolt just below the arm, followed by a lock washer, and finally the 5/8” castle nut. The bolt MUST go in from the top! The bolt will protrude too far if you attempt to insert it from the bottom! If you are using an L&P Performance double-sheer idler or pitman arm, the order changes slightly. Instead, the bolt goes through the top flange of the arm, through one flat washer, through the centerlink, another flat washer, through the arm itself, one lock washer, and finally the castle nut (omit the last flat washer).

10. Repeat the procedure from #9 on the other arm.

 

11. Loose fit BOTH SIDES before tightening. Tighten both of the 5/8” grade 8 bolts to 125 ft/lbs. Insert the included cotter pin through the pre-drilled hole in the bolt and bend it into place to prevent the castle nut from ever coming loose.

12. Reattach the TREs to your NEW Centerlink, being sure to tighten them to manufacturer’s specifications. Now would also be a good time to replace any worn TREs, or other worn steering parts. Any play in them will become apparent after installing the NEW Centerlink.

13. At this point, start the vehicle and cycle the steering back and fourth several times to be sure that nothing is binding and that everything is functioning normally (use common sense). It is normal for the NEW Centerlink to cause your steering to feel very stiff for the first week or two while the Teflon liners in the bearings break in. YOU MUST GET YOUR TRUCK ALIGNED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE! DO NOT DRIVE THE TRUCK ANY MORE THAN IS NECESSARY TO GET TO THE ALIGNMENT SHOP! Also, DO NOT EXCEED 30MPH! BE CAREFUL! USE YOUR COMMON SENSE. IF ANYTHING APPEARS TO BE WRONG, STOP IMMEDIATELY! If the distance exceeds 2 miles, consider either trailering or towing your truck to the alignment shop. L&P Performance CANNOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE DONE BY NOT ALIGNING YOUR TRUCK ASAP!

14. You are done! You are now the proud owner of a NEW L&P Performance Centerlink equipped truck!

15. Check all fasteners frequently! Re-torque all fasteners on a regular basis.